Each Chef Ought to Train At This Spot’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Ranks Fourth on Roll of London’s Best Restaurants.

When compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate well-known high-end venues. But, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” states a family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble place securing such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary honour.

Stacy Kennedy
Stacy Kennedy

A science journalist with a passion for uncovering emerging technologies and their societal impacts.